Saturday Night is Alright for Muay Thai

Saturday night is not really the time for Muay Thai. The actual time to view Muay Thai are Saturday and Sunday afternoons when Muay Thai is broadcast nationwide from Bangkok's Lumpini Stadium. Muay Thai is what Americans would call kickboxing, however, the rhythm is much different.  One of the differences you'll notice is that there is very little straight leg kicking and the truly huge blows come from the knees.  There is also a different type of footwork that you would see. The bobbing motions of the fighters are also in a different rhythm.  For fighters who are not as good as the seasoned fighters, one may also see lots of clutching between the fighters.  The best fights, as with all fighting sports, are the ones where both fighters are aggressive.

Muay Thai is a national sport here in Thailand and Thais love their sport.  The sport is bathed in rituals before the fight, including Muay Thai music playing as the fight progresses.  Where I'm staying, some of the local farmers come by my wife's convenience store and take a break from the fields. They come here to enjoy the boxing and also to place some friendly wagers on the matches. One thing that I noticed about the crowd is that no matter how old the men were, there was not much white or gray hair to be found. Everyone was easy going, good natured about what they were doing and respectful of the store.

The trickle of men coming into the store began with two elderly gentlemen, who plopped themselves down on a hammock and a bench.  Later, some younger folk came in, then some neighbors.  All of a sudden the scene resembled a Las Vegas sports book, with betting of course.  Drinks were served, alcoholic and non-alcoholic, and money wagered. There was then the unmistakable din of pain when heavy knee blows were struck by the fighters.  The crowd would groan as if they were the ones being hit. 

I was thinking about the saying the "nothing attracts a crowd like a crowd" and it was very true with our boxing-crazy neighbors. It was a chance for everyone to take a break, join a crowd, win some money, and to do a community thing.  People shared hand-rolled cigarettes and gossip as the fights progressed. Big demonstrations of the joy in winning were quite a sight and many left their "reserved" faces back home.

Thoughts About Congee

Congee, rice porridge or "jook," has been a staple for Asians for years. It is one of those dishes that can be considered the most basic of Asian comfort foods. I have yet to find an Asian culture where it doesn't exist in one form or another. Yet is all goes back to the basic ingredients of rice and water.  The congee I grew up with was made with a thick porridge-like consistency.  Congee could also be made thinner with more water. I've seen and eaten congee where the water is completely separated from the grains of rice, which haven't been boiled down.

Condiments vary with congee and reflect local tastes.  For example, in Hong Kong, the Chinese add slices of thousand-year old duck eggs, which is a fermented egg into congee.  Other common toppings are salted pork, peanuts, scallions, fish balls, fish cakes, chicken gizzards, etc.  In Thailand, toppings include cilantro, pork bits and chopped salted vegetables. (see picture) Congee can be found at many street food carts. In Singapore, I discovered that MacDonalds offers a "MacPorridge" bowl for its breakfast diners. As you can see, you really don't have to go far to find a cheap and satisfying bowl of congee that will tie you over until lunch.

In parts of Asia, a common complement to congee is the addition of the cruller, a long stick-shaped fried bread.  Now all jokes aside, the sizes do vary by region.  In the picture above, taken in Thailand, I have found that the crullers are about the size as a finger and are sold in bags of 10 or 15 (about 33 cents).  They are delicious when dipped or added into the congee.  In the United States and Hong Kong, crullers or "you tiao" are about a foot long and can be separated into two by tearing it apart.  At some restaurants, the crullers are cut into little bits and slices and are added to the congee.  Once again, the cruller represents comfort food at its finest.

From an Asian-American perspective, congee represents thoughts of home and what it was like when mom provided for all your basic needs. Congee was and is still used as a recovery food after an illness because of its neutral properties as it's just rice and water, with no harmful additives. No matter how congee is taken, whether it's a breakfast. lunch, dinner or snack, there is always a place for it during the day.  Hundreds of millions of Asians and Asian-Americans agree and for those who are new to congee, give it a try, it's healthy, tasty and easy to make!

The Red Shirt Conundrum

If you have been watching the international news, the Red Shirts of Thailand have been staging mass demonstrations in several areas of Bangkok.  They've chosen to congregate around the large and popular monuments in the Thai capital drawing maximum attention to their cause. Every day appears to be a cat and mouse game between the current government, with neither side backing off their official positions.  The Red Shirts are constantly trying to change their tactics in order to reach their goals of dissolving Parliament, holding new elections and better equity for their constituents.  Unfortunately, it appears that neither side is yielding and that potential violence may be looming in the capital. From my perspective, I must give credit to both sides for showing laudable restraint.   

I know that my blog is really about food and culture, but for those who know me well, I am an advocate of economic equity in society, including my own. Being American and knowing how American society has evolved through years of blood, sweat and tears to create "a more perfect union", I can say that most countries in the world inevitably follow the same course in their road to modernity. Just take a look at the past 20 years of world history; almost every country on earth has gone through some sort of political or economic transformation. The only question in my view is the ultimate direction of that transformation: whether that transformation is a force for the greater good for its citizens or if the transformation for the benefit of the few.

As you can see, I am looking at this from the angle of domestic policy and what any government can do to improve the lot of its people. I would submit that in most countries, those who are in positions of leadership have a poor record of guiding a country through a transformation, and if it does succeed, only a few benefit from its fruits. Distribution of wealth is problematic in many countries and just look at the GINI index of income disparity for proof of this. Even the US has a lot of work to do to improve in that measure. As an American, I do not want my country to become a Brazil, China, nor Haiti. There are clear parallels in each of these countries and that is income disparity and concentrated wealth.

If I made the statements I made above thirty years ago when the Cold War was alive and well, I would have been branded a Marxist, Communist, or a variety of other labels that would not have been helpful for discussion of the substantive economic issues at hand. (Also, red is symbolic of Communism-for the younger readers)  I am surprised and glad that no one is calling the Red Shirts, Communists, just other names, which I won't repeat here.

In the world press, the story in Thailand has been the clash between royalists/military, business elite and the rural poor. I can't help but equate this struggle with our own rural poor and their political leanings. The conservatives in my country have been able to use cultural issues such as abortion, gay marriage and gun rights to shift focus away from economic issues for a long period of time in the United States. They also say that anything that is good for workers or the poor is bad for the economy. They also give false hope to the poor that "one day, if you become one of us - the rich-, you would not want these egregious government policies to be foisted upon you." Also, another line given to the poor and middle class is "why should I be financing my neighbor's healthcare, etc.", encouraging a culture of separation and lack of focus one's  economic realities. This is why despite the poverty that can be found in the American South, Midwest or Appalachia, these areas continue to be solidly Republican/conservative and the gap between the rich and poor grows.  Additionally, the Republicans in the US generally represent the interests of business and in turn are not for social equity, which is another story.

In Thailand, Thaksin Shinawatra, a powerful businessman who had risen to the Prime Minister's office had garnered political power through his patronage of the rural and urban poor.  He was ultimately ousted through a military coup a few years into his second term. Notwithstanding his honesty in his business dealings, it is an undeniable fact that his administration had brought more basic services to those living at the bottom rung of society. Having tasted the fruits of these improvements, the poor have become more aware of their plight which has made this group more politically active. In contrasts, in the United States, where the poor is more manipulated by the conservative media, the poor in Thailand seems willing to be more active in demanding basic services to improve their lives.  I know that some in Thailand will say that the demonstrators are being paid to demonstrate, but how many people in the US would demonstrate with the distinct possibility of being shot at by the authorities? I would think that even if they were paid, no amount of money is worth being shot at. To the poor, there is much at stake, so they're willing to risk their lives for their beliefs and the status quo, which is institutionalized poverty is not acceptable.  Look at all the movements in American history and you'll see the same parallels.

As events unfold in Thailand, I can't help but imagine that if these demonstrators were in China or Burma, they would be mowed down within the first hours of assembling. There's no democratic tradition in these countries to respect human rights, thus these countries would have no qualms to fire upon its citizens. It's a tribute to Thailand that although Thailand has a spotty history with democracy, they do know that ultimately, that is the way to move forward.  Only in democratic countries is where governments tolerate demonstrations without violence.  If violence happens, it is not on a monumental scale as in dictatorial regimes.

I remember on my way back to my hotel during my first night in Bangkok, I used a tourist map to guide myself back to my hotel through the roadblocks.  Not far from my hotel is the "Democracy Monument". I have never seen this monument before, but the fact that Thailand has one bodes well for it's future. 
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Life In The Slow Lane

The long dry season is moving forward with deliberate slowness, culminating with the all-out water-splashing madness of Songkran, the Thai New Year, this coming Tuesday.  I've been told that there's an ongoing drought in Kamphaeng Phet province and that farmers are doing everything they can to keep their crops healthy and watered.  Thankfully there are irrigation wells dug along most of the fields I've seen.  The hard work lies in pumping it out and transporting it where it is needed.

The dryness is inescapable.  The blistering heat has made the topsoil sandy and when the occasional gust of wind comes or a truck passes, the air fills with a light brown sandy mist.  The farmers work all day to keep the dust off their home floors. Shopkeepers spend time dusting their goods and I spend time getting it out of my sandals.  Despite these conditions, I found an upside to all of this dustiness and that is the dryness allows everyone to walk around with or without sandals.  Either way, your feet will make contact with dirt; it's just that the dirt won't harm the soles of your feet in any way and you won't be seen by the locals as being unsanitary. The only sandal etiquette here is that you are expected to leave your sandals outside one's home for fear of transferring in some dirt from the outside.

Aside from the heat and drought, which is always a topic of conversation in these parts, is the pursuit of activities that relieve these conditions.  I have a fairly unique perspective of the social activity that goes on in our village and presumably most of Thailand's countryside.  My wife's family owns a small convenience store on a main road in a small maze of farmhouses. Rush hour for farmers begins early in the morning, 5 a.m. for some but for most by 6 a.m.  This is mainly due to force of habit or because the heat is lowest in the morning.  There is a slow yet steady procession of farm vehicles, from threshers to machines used to harvest rice to simple tractors passing through to the fields.  Included in this daily convoy are pickup trucks, motorcycles and bicycles.  This procession brings steady business to my wife's family store and also to any number of businesses alongside the three or four well-traveled roads in the village.  The evening rush hour begins at around 5 p.m. until 8 p.m.

It is with great joy and satisfaction to see how after a long day's work in the fields, these workers like to unwind like any one of us living in large cities after a day at the office.  We would think nothing of going to a bar to unwind and the same is true with the farmers.  They would stop by the convenience store for a shot of Hong Thong whiskey or a few bottles of Leo Beer.  Most would surprisingly come in with huge smiles and joke around with my father and mother in-law.  Everyone knows they had a long day. My father in-law set up a huge bench with a large table in front of his store for those who just want to stop by, drink and gossip.  There is a large yellow hammock that looks like it had been there since World War II that lies swinging near the table.  Any customer is welcome to use it while they are sipping their drink.

The blessing in living in a village where everyone knows each other is that everyone knows each other, if not by name, then by face.  Everyone, I found is universally friendly, yet each person I've come across have individual personalities. Although I couldn't speak Thai, I could tell when people are joking, talking about business, being serious or just gossiping. In another aspect of daily life, I love seeing how families interact, how parents handle their children and the surprising amounts of trust they have in them because they are not afraid of the environment in which they live. From what I could see, kindness and trust goes a long way here and is always remembered. I hope I am not romanticizing my experience as there are negative aspects to life out here. What I can truly say is that Thais from the countryside want what families want the world over which is a  better home, life, future and the improvement of their family. I now understand why "It Takes a Village."

Three Days in Bangkok

Before departing for Bangkok, I kept one eye on the unfolding events in Thailand and another eye on what I would do when I actually got there.  To start off my trip, I figured I would need three days in Bangkok to get my bearings straight and to fight off some of my jet lag.  Having been to Asia several times in the last decade, I knew that I would hit a 3 day jet lag wall, when my body would just give out.  I guess I could equate the experience to drug addiction withdrawal symptoms. I handled "the wall" surprisingly well with the exception of one day, when I needed assistance of a cup of Starbucks coffee.

During my first night in Bangkok, my wife and I decided to visit an old university friend of mine in Bangkok. Right before my visit, I was hitting the proverbial jet lag wall and went into a Starbucks.  I ordered a "Cafe Americano" hoping that it tasted the same as regular brewed coffee at an American Starbucks.  I was satisfied with the quality and happy with the taste which was very similar to what I am used to.  The difference was only in the preparation: the barista pulled two shots of espresso into a shot glass before adding hot water to the mug.  There was also one unexpected event in ordering: no, it wasn't the language barrier, but it was the different sizing system they use here in Bangkok.  Tall, Grande, and Venti sizes weren't used, however, the sizing system here is Short, Tall, and Grande.  I ordered the Grande thinking it was medium. I ended up getting  a huge mug of coffee, which in the end wasn't so bad as it carried me through the events of the night.

When we made reservations for a Bangkok hotel in January, my wife and I decided that we wanted to be in an area of Bangkok, we have never lived in, thus we chose Khaosan Road, which is the "backpackers paradise" in Thailand.  Khaosan Road was easy to spot, not because of the backpackers, but because the street was lined with tiny Thai flags strung across the entire length of the street.  We did walk past backpackers with gigantic backpacks, but surprisingly, the tourists here seemed well-heeled and civilized.  Most were couples and families and there were very few single travelers.

The street food scene was excellent, as it had been in most of the other parts of Thailand I'd been to. The street food scene starts up on Khaosan road at sundown with carts constantly streaming in and out of the center of the road.  On the sidewalks are the permanent businesses, cheap guest houses, internet cafes, and tourist trinket shops. Here you could find every type of street food and since these foods are fast food, they are usually grilled, fried or stir-fried.  It is not a place for those on a diet.  The healthiest thing I found here are the fruit stands, but I heard from the grapevine that many of these fruits are non-organic, meaning that farmers here use plenty of pesticides and chemicals that promote growth.  I didn't let that small detail stop me and I did indulge in mango, watermelon and papaya.  Unfortunately, mangosteen season is not here yet, so I'll have to wait.  For the record, mangos come in two varieties, sweet orange and hard sour/sweet varieties.  Both are excellent this time of year. Watermelons are not as juicy as they are in the States but passable.  Some are as small as softballs and the biggest ones are as big as basketballs.  As for papayas, they are as juicy and sweet as ever, which beats anything you can find at a New York green grocer. 

In later posts, I will describe some of the food I tried in Thailand. I do not know the actual names in Thai for all the foods, but I will do my best to describe them accurately.  There is a world of food out there and now that I have left  Bangkok, I am learning that food culture is driven by how people live and how people try to use what is available to them to survive.  For the record, I am now living in a farming community in central Thailand and living here is a total 180 degree turn from anything I have ever experienced.  My trip is not a vacation but in a way, living the life as a local.  Having a strong stomach helps too!

New York Sushi Restaurants: Traditional Japanese vs. Chinese Style

From my earliest days of sushi comsumption, which goes back to the late 1980's, New York City sushi restaurants have always been polarized between traditional Japanese sushi purists and the value sushi contingent.  Although I love everything about having a traditional sushi meal, my cheap roots have me standing firmly in the corner of the value sushi corner.

In New York City, as with many places I've been to, value sushi usually means Chinese-made sushi and Chinese-owned sushi restaurants.  Why has there been such a huge influx of Chinese sushi restaurants?  The reason behind this influx is the general business environment of the the Chinese restaurant business.  Chinese restaurants can be found in all corners of the United States and their number makes it a highly competitive business.  Even Asian food markets have made inroads in formerly sleepy suburbs, which have indirectly cut into the profits of Chinese restaurant operators.  Thus, Chinese-American owners and new Chinese immigrants have decided to diversify and have opened, Japanese, Thai, and even Mexican restaurants right here in Manhattan. 

It is quite easy to see why the operation of Chinese restaurants is an expensive proposition.  Customers have been conditioned through the years to expect huge portions of greasy food from these operators. More food equals fewer profits.  As for Japanese food, small portions equals big profits. 

Qualitatively, the entrance of Chinese operators into the Japanese restaurant market have created a dual, polarized choice among sushi consumers.  For the Cheap Guy (that is me), I have found that cheapness dictates that I go more often to Chinese-run sushi establishments.

Let's see what I get for my money for going to a Chinese-run sushi restaurant:

1. A soup and/or salad with an entree.
2. Potentially a free appetizer, edamame or seaweed salad.
3. Large maki rolls. (i.e. cut-up and hand rolls)
4. Large sushi and sashimi pieces
5. Large tempura
6. American style rolls, such as California Rolls and Spicy Tuna, etc.
7. Value prices, usually $2 to $3 less per roll, $5 to $10 less per entree.

Now, let's see what we get for going to a Traditional Japanese sushi eatery:

1. Impeccable quality in rice, preparation and presentation.
2. A greater variety in fish, including imported Japanese varieties not on the menu.
3. Greater interaction between the customer and sushi chef. Generally good service.

Now for the downsides of dining in a Chinese-run Japanese restaurant:

1. Potentially hurried and rushed service because of a need to turn over tables quickly due to their lower margins than their Japanese-run counterparts.
2. Less than fresh fish.  Sourcing and storage practices may be questionable depending on a restaurant's experience and staff.

Here are the downsides of dining in a Japanese-run sushi restaurant:

1. Confusion in ordering. Diners may need to know terms like "omakase", "isakaya", etc. 
2. American diners may need to know that Japanese restaurants don't offer American-style maki rolls.
3. Higher prices across the board. (But keep in mind that quality-mindedness reigns supreme at most Japanese-run restaurants.

So there you have it, a generalized summary of the two largest segments of New York sushi restaurants.  I firmly believe that sushi eaters in New York fall into one of the two camps.  To me, there is nothing wrong with either, but wouldn't it be a sushi lover's paradise if we could mix the upsides of both? and have value Japanese style sushi? I would love to live in that world!

Juan Valdez in New York and Thoughts on Colombian Coffee

Every day, I have the pleasure of waking up and watching WPIX, one of the two local news stations here in New York City. I always enjoy watching the antics of their anchors and today was no exception. I couldn't help but notice a guy who was standing in front of the WPIX building all dressed in white. When I took a closer look I thought, "hey, that's Juan Valdez!"  And indeed it was!  I looked the the right and thought, "hey, that's Tamsen Fadal!" And I was right. But I digress, as Juan Valdez was his usual stoic self and mostly silent self.

He was all there in his white hat, white coat, with a burlap bag slung over his shoulders.  His best accessory was his donkey. So many people couldn't resist petting his donkey that they got in the way of my shot. 

Anyhow, this had me thinking about Juan Valdez and Colombian coffee.  Colombian coffee to me is Arabica, smooth and mild in taste.  Bold Colombian blends are just Arabica beans roasted darker.  In general, I really like Colombian coffee and think Juan Valdez is just the man to sell the concept, even though it is not a brand per se. 

In New York City's Times Square, there is one Juan Valdez coffee shop, which is set up very much like Starbucks.  I've been there more than a couple of times and have been disappointed every time. (Why I go there so often is for another blog entry!)  The furniture is old, as is the poor upkeep of the store.  Although everything is branded with the Juan Valdez logo, one can't help but feel that this poor example of a store is helping to tarnish his image.  In fact, I remember the first time I went, I wanted to order a blended drink that was on their menu board, but the barista said he didn't have any! Wow, imagine Starbucks saying that to a customer!

No store can be completely bad, so I must say that Juan Valdez's coffee shop is located in a great location, a block south of Times Square and is a couple of dimes cheaper than Starbucks. It offers ample seating although on well-worn furniture.  I wish that one day, those who run Juan Valdez coffee realize the value of their brand and improve their store, especially the one in Times Square!